When a business has been around for 40 years, a couple of assumptions are fair: one, it’s made a name for itself, and two, its owners are doing something right. In this era of chain stores and fast-food restaurants, you might expect such a business to have multiple locations or an extraordinary web presence. But the simple fact is that The Bagel Deli & Restaurant has grown deep roots in Denver’s sometimes fickle soil not because of pressure from stockholders to expand or because it changes with the latest trends, but instead because it remains a humble mom-n-pop shop, as loyal to its customers as they are to it.

Nestled into the corner of a strip mall at Interstate 25 and Hampden is this little pocket of Denver culture. The Deli’s flickering neon sign, uniform windows, and otherwise plain white facade give passersby the impression that this is just another run-of-the-mill joint, like the dry cleaner next door. But inside…

“Just sit wherever ya’ like!” a waitress calls from across the dining room, giving the initial impression of a convivial East Coast haunt. The chatter of middle-aged couples and old-time friends fills the air with warmth like the morning sun, and portraits of owners Joe and Rhoda Kaplan and family color the far wall. Coffee steams on every table, and the short-backed booths allow heads to turn toward the front door in hopes of greeting a fellow regular. (“Hiiii!” is heard often throughout the dining room.) This, says the atmosphere, is a place where friends gather.

The seats are pleather, yet soft and warm like oft-used recliners, leaving the attention free to roam. The day’s special is written in permanent marker on a sheet of butcher paper and taped to a Tropicana soft-drink cooler: Challah French Toast with sweet cream cheese filling…one egg & Baken. (Yes, “Baken.” You’ll have to drop by to experience it.) Articles, reviews, and awards from Denver newspapers dating to 1975 are tacked to a cork bulletin board; an ice machine whispers at the end of the aisle; and near the front door a lonesome chair beckons a child to climb up, stand, and insert a quarter into the Ms. Pac-Man arcade game. This is a place without pretension.

On the other side of the dividing wall, the deli is reminiscent of The Market in Denver’s Larimer Square and of the simplicity captured in a Rockwell painting. Jared, the owners’ son, greets a customer before leaning on the display case to take an order for a pastrami sandwich and homemade chicken soup. Soda coolers flank the wire racks stacked with various breads, flavors of matzo balls, and jars of gefilte fish. And beside the front door stands Joe Kaplan at the cash register, a magnificent smile welcoming the next soon-to-be repeat customers. This is a place where everyone is welcome.

“Hi,” says Shirley Ross. She’s a jovial waitress whose musical voice perfectly suits her energetic personality. (If you correctly guess her country of origin, she really lights up!) She’s been at the Deli a mere 37 years. “I’ve been working here since day one, in 1971!” she happily admits. Rare is the instance when Shirley isn’t topping off a coffee mug or water glass, but when the place gets packed—and it often does—Norma Birza is right there to back her up. Norma has served thousands of bagels—nay, thousands of customers—in her “over 27” years at the Deli. “I don’t remember exactly how long I’ve been here,” says the 76-year old. “But over 27 years.” Clara Gertz, a third veteran of the Deli, has 26 years under her belt.

“I have great bosses to work with,” Shirley says, as owner Rhoda Kaplan refills coffee within earshot. Rhoda smirks.

In 1969, Rhoda’s parents bought the original Bagel Deli, located in the Mayfair neighborhood of Denver. It’s since been closed, but the current location continues to thrive. Forty years of business, a dining room full of regulars, and servers with decades of loyalty under their belts: This is a place that keeps its employees and customers happy.

The Deli is also a rare nugget of culture for Denver. “We don’t advertise as a Jewish delicatessen,” says Joe Kaplan, “but we are a Jewish delicatessen. You just can’t walk into a lot of places in Denver and see culture.” (Precisely the inspiration for this article.)

Over the years, The Bagel Deli has been written up in The Denver Post, The Rocky Mountain News, and Westword, and has won Best Deli, Best Bagel, and 5280’s Editor’s Choice for Bagels, among other awards and acclaims. It’s no wonder so many “mensches” come here to “schmooze” over “latkes.” (Refer to Deli Dictionary, www.bageldeli.com .)

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Stacia said:

-Cairn comment- Great writer, fun article - I'm a native and have never heard of the place. Time to check it out!!

March 26, 2009 @ 08:45 AM

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