| On The Rocks |
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| Written by Craig Luebben | |
On The Rocks was Craig Luebben's contribution to Cairn Issue 2... A cliff swallow drops out of the sky, swishes within inches of your head and disappears into the depths below. Your eyes follow her trajectory toward the ground — 500 feet straight down. What are you doing up here? Rock climbing, that’s what. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Colorado is one of the best places on the planet for rock climbers. As the Rocky Mountains pushed their way through the Earth’s crust they exposed numerous rock formations. Within a seven-hour drive of Denver, you can find one of the most diverse offerings of developed climbing in the world. The rock types represented include granite, sandstone, limestone, basalt and gneiss; each has its own unique characteristics for climbing. Certainly, humans climbed rocks in ancient times — it takes some respectable climbing to reach some of the old rock shelters in the desert southwest. However, the technical climbing we practice today evolved from mountaineering in the European Alps. In the beginning, the goal was to bag peaks by their easiest routes. Soon climbers upped the ante by choosing harder variations, and they realized the need to train on the rocky outcrops in the valleys. Some climbers found rock climbing to be more intriguing and more safe than mountaineering and they specialized. Eventually, rock climbing splintered into bouldering, gym climbing, sport climbing, traditional climbing and big wall climbing. Each style of climbing requires its own skill set and specialized gear. A common misconception among the general public is that free climbing means climbing without a rope; that is called free soloing. Free soloing leaves no room for error – you fall you die. Fortunately only a handful of the wildest climbers free solo, and they rarely fall. Free climbers use a rope for protection, but they climb solely under their own power – no hanging on the rope or pulling on anchors. You can divide climbers into three groups. Professionals are the elite climbers and guides who eke out a living through climbing. They love climbing so much that most sacrifice financial security to live the climbing dream. Herein lies the true cost of a climbing obsession –the pricey gear and plane tickets are insignificant compared to all the years of lost income. Lifers create a lifestyle around climbing. They’re easy to spot: their friends are climbers, all vacations are climbing trips, climbing stickers cover their car — and their bathroom read is a climbing magazine. Recreational climbers keep it in perspective. They enjoy climbing now and then, but they also have a few other favorite activities. Only the most talented rec climbers reach high climbing levels because, as in any endeavor, it takes serious drive and commitment to become a good climber. Recreational climbers sometimes seem to have the most fun. Lifers and professionals often travel to climb; in fact, as I write this story my Subaru is hurtling across the Midwest toward New River Gorge in West Virginia, one of the climbing meccas of the east. I’ll be attending the New River Rendezvous, a climbing festival that draws several hundred climbers. In any climbing area, you’ll find instant camaraderie with the other crazies who rock climb, and the various climbing festivals bring a sense of unity to the climbing community. Personally, I’ve been lucky enough to climb in dozens of states, plus Canada, Europe, South America, China and Madagascar. In my early days, I traveled to climb, but now it seems that I climb to travel. It’s amazing that I often run into the same people at climbing areas around the world. Getting StartedHow do you get started rock climbing? The best way is to learn from professional rock climbing guides who will jump-start you into climbing with the most modern gear and techniques. If you hire a guide, inquire about his or her certification. The American Mountain Guides Association certifies guides for rock climbing, alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. In the rock discipline, top rope site mangers are certified to lead short, top-roped climbing excursions; certified rock instructors and rock guides have a higher level of training and examinations and they can take you on longer climbs. Go to www.amga.com for a list of local certified guides. Another alternative is to join the Colorado Mountain Club and take their rock climbing classes. This route allows you access to the club’s climbing trips later on. A third option is to learn from friends. This may or may not be a good path, depending on your friends. To a novice, even an inexperienced climber might seem like an expert. You’ll get the best training from a professional – and you’ll pay for it. Reality CheckClimbing is not for everyone. Some people can’t get over their fear of heights, and some people just don’t feel the magic — to them climbing is not worth the effort and risk. No worries – Colorado has a few dozen other great outdoor activities. Climbing can be risky or deadly, especially for inexperienced climbers who get in over their head, and also for enthusiasts who spend so much time in the vertical world that the odds finally catch up with them. This has been the most painful part of climbing for me because I’ve lost quite a few friends over the years. But climbing has immensely enriched our lives, giving us passion, adventure, athleticism and great friends. To me, the risk has been worth it, but that’s a decision that everyone needs to make before climbing.
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